Guide · Nails

French nails

A white tip and a natural base — a design that has not changed in fifty years, yet is done today in a dozen variations. Here is what to ask for in the salon, which variation suits which length, and how french differs from baby boomer.

French nails — the classic white tip on long nails

French nail ideas

Five variations that cover almost everything asked for in the salon — from the classic to the one deliberately done short.

Classic french

White tip, natural base, a clean border. It sits best at medium length on a square or slightly rounded shape. As it grows the border moves with the nail and that shows — hence a refill every three weeks.

Coloured french

The same design, but the tip is in colour rather than white. It forgives more than the classic: a darker tip hides an uneven line better than white, which forgives nothing.

Baby boomer

No border — the white tip melts into the base. It is done by sponging or blending two gels while they are still wet. It takes the longest to look grown out, so it is often chosen by people who cannot get back every three weeks.

Micro french

A very thin line right at the tip, barely a millimetre. It works on short nails too, where a classic french visually shortens the nail plate.

Reverse french

The line runs along the cuticle instead of the tip. Regrowth shows on it faster than on any other version, so it is done as a short-lived idea rather than a choice for the month.

French nails in colour

A coloured tip does the same job as a white one, with two practical advantages. A darker line hides the small irregularities a white tip highlights, and regrowth is noticed more slowly because the eye is not looking for the border in the same place.

French nails in colour — a coloured tip instead of white
A coloured tip forgives more than white: an uneven line is harder to see in a darker shade.

If you are choosing a colour for the first time, muted shades are the safer bet — milky, sand, dusty rose. Bright colours on the tip demand a flawless line, because every irregularity becomes a design of its own.

French nail photos

When you take a photo to the salon, it helps if the length and the shape are visible in it — not just the colour.

French nails — a classic french at medium length
Classic, medium length
French nails in colour — a tip in a muted shade
Coloured tip
French nails on long nails — white tip, coffin shape
Long length, coffin

A photo taken straight after the salon says nothing about how the nails look in the third week. If you are choosing a technician, it is worth asking for a photo of grown-out work too — that shows how the line was drawn.

French manicure

An older name for the same thing. In the salon people now more often say “french”, but anyone asking for a french manicure is asking for a white tip and a natural base — no difference in technique and none in price.

French manicure in a salon — gel being applied to the nail
The design itself is the smaller part of the job: most of the time goes on preparing the nail plate and the shape.

Baby boomer nails

The same idea without the border: the white tip melts into the natural base, so there is no transition. It is done while the gels are still wet, by blending or sponging, and takes more time in the chair than a classic french.

The practical difference is in the regrowth. With a classic french you can clearly see after three weeks that the line has moved. With a baby boomer what moves has no clear edge, which buys a week or two more between refills.

Questions people ask most often

How long do french nails last

Like any gel polish, two to three weeks. The design itself does not shorten the life, but regrowth shows sooner on a french than on a single colour, because the line moves too.

Do french nails work on short nails

They do, but the line is drawn thinner. A wide white band on a short nail shortens the plate. For short nails a micro french or a baby boomer is the more common choice.

What is the difference between french and baby boomer nails

A french has a clear border between the tip and the base. A baby boomer has no border — the transition is diffused, so regrowth is noticed more slowly.

What is a french manicure

The same as french — an older name for a white tip and a natural base. Salons more often hear it asked for as “french”, but both names mean the same thing.

Can french be done on natural nails

It can, with gel polish and no extensions. The length on show is then the length of your own nail, so the white line is drawn narrower than on an extended nail.

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