Guide · Hairdresser / barber

Men's haircuts

Six cuts that cover almost everything asked for in the chair, what each clipper number actually means, and how long each one holds before it starts to look grown out.

Men's haircuts — a fade at the barber, the blend at the temple

Men's haircuts — six cuts

Names are understood differently from salon to salon, but these six are asked for everywhere and under the same names.

Fade

The hair climbs gradually from the nape and temples with no visible step anywhere. The whole job is in the blend — it is how you tell who can actually handle clippers.

SuitsAlmost any hair and any faceRefreshEvery 2 to 3 weeks

Undercut

The sides are taken down to one length and do not blend into the top — there is a clear edge. The top stays long and is combed back or to the side.

SuitsThicker, straighter hairRefreshEvery 3 to 4 weeks

Crop

A short, forward-fringed top with textured ends. It is worn without styling and is the most forgiving cut when the hairline is thinning.

SuitsFine, thinner hairRefreshEvery 4 weeks

Pompadour

Volume at the front, hair combed up and back. It needs length on top, and it needs five minutes in front of the mirror every morning — without that it does not hold.

SuitsThick, strong hairRefreshEvery 4 to 5 weeks

Buzz

One clipper length over the whole head. The simplest cut there is, but it reveals the shape of the skull and every scar — it hides nothing.

SuitsAn even head shapeRefreshEvery 2 weeks

Classic scissor cut

Scissors, a parting, no sharp transitions. It never goes out of style and ages the slowest between appointments, because there is no line to grow out.

SuitsAnyone, work includedRefreshEvery 4 to 6 weeks

The fade

A fade is not one haircut but a blend: the length grows from the nape upwards and no step is visible anywhere. The difference between barbers sits exactly there — a bad blend does not show in a photo taken from the front, but everyone standing to the side sees it.

Fade haircut — a gradual clipper blend from the nape upwards
The height where the blend starts changes the whole cut: low is discreet, high is sharp.

What you actually agree on in the chair is not the word “fade” but the height. A low fade starts just above the ear and is fine for the office; a mid fade goes up to the temple; a high fade starts at the corner of the forehead and changes the whole shape of the head. If nothing is said, you get a mid fade.

The fade ages faster than any other cut. By the third week the blend blurs and the cut looks grown out — hence an appointment every two to three weeks, not every six.

Men's haircuts — clipper numbers

The number on the guard is the length in millimetres. This is the one table worth knowing before you sit down.

Standard guards. On some clippers the lengths differ by a millimetre — if it matters, ask before they start.
Number 01.5 mmSkin shows through, the blend starts at the nape
Number 13 mmThe lowest point on most fades
Number 26 mmThe most common choice for the sides
Number 310 mmA slight take-down, the length still reads
Number 413 mmThe transition into the top
Number 619 mmShort, but it does not read as clipped

When in doubt, take the bigger number. Shorter can always happen right away, longer only in a month's time — and that is the one haircut mistake that cannot be fixed the same day.

Barber

A barber and a hair salon are not the same trade. A barber works with clippers, a razor and a hot towel, and half the job is the beard — shape, the line on the cheek and neck, the shave. A hair salon works with scissors, colour and styling, and that is where you go for longer hair or colour.

A barber shaping a beard with a razor — the line on cheek and neck
The neckline falls apart first. If you cannot make the appointment, ask for it lower and softer.

For a fade, a sharp line and a beard, go to a barber. For a classic scissor cut, colour or longer hair, go to a hair salon. Most people do both jobs, but not equally well — and you can tell from the photos in their window.

Men's haircuts by face shape

The rule is simple: the cut adds what is missing and takes away what there is too much of.

Round face

  • Volume on top, short sides — pompadour, high fade
  • Avoid one length all over, and the buzz

Long face

  • Less height on top, more length on the sides — the crop
  • Avoid a tall pompadour, it lengthens further

Square face

  • Almost everything works; a textured top softens the jaw
  • A classic cut with a parting is the safest choice

Thinning hair

  • Short and textured — crop, buzz
  • Avoid combing over the forehead; in daylight it goes see-through

Men's haircut photos

A photo taken to the salon is worth more than a name. It helps if the profile is visible in it, not just the face.

Men's haircut — a textured crop with short sides
Crop, short sides
Men's haircut — a mid fade with a longer top
Mid fade
Men's haircut with a shaped beard at the barber
A cut with a shaped beard

A salon photo shows the cut right after styling. If you do not plan on five minutes in front of the mirror every morning, it is worth saying so — the cut is then built differently.

Questions people ask most often

What is the difference between a fade and an undercut

A fade has no edge — the length grows gradually from the nape upwards. An undercut has a clear border: the sides are at one length, the top is long and does not blend into them.

Which clipper number should I ask for

The number is the length in millimetres: zero is about 1.5 mm, a two is 6 mm, a four is 13 mm. If you are not sure, it is safer to ask for a bigger number — shorter is always possible, longer is not until next time.

How often should I get a haircut

On a fade the blend blurs after two to three weeks already. A classic scissor cut holds four to six weeks, because there is no line to grow out.

Which men's haircut suits thinning hair

A short crop with a textured top and short sides. Longer hair combed over the forehead goes see-through in daylight and highlights exactly what it is trying to hide.

What should I bring to explain the haircut

A photo, and one taken from the side rather than only from the front — the blend at the temple is what you are agreeing on. The name of a cut is understood differently from salon to salon; a picture is not.

Is hair washed before a men's cut

Damp hair is easier to cut evenly, so most salons wash it. A fade is often done on dry hair because the blend reads better that way — both are correct.

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